Removing the instrument cluster
Remove the two T-25 screws at the top corners of the cluster (you can see them easily through the windshield). Picture
Disconnect all the wiring connections. After much frustration, I've found that the key is to disconnect the Pictogram connector first. Pull the cluster upward and rotate the bottom forward until you can see the Pictogram connector at the bottom left of the cluster. Picture Depress the retainer on the inner end of the connector (Picture), pull the connector loose, then rotate it out and toward the other end (Picture). When it's rotated a bit past 90 degrees you can decouple the outer end and remove the connector.
Remove the end connectors by squeezing the end tabs, then pulling the connector loose. Picture
Remove the intermediate connectors. Picture
Remove the two central connectors. They can be seen in the intermediate connector picture. The upper one just pulls out. The lower one requires squeezing tabs on the end of the connector.
Remove the vacuum line from the boost gauge. Picture It will get sort of "welded" after a while - try rotating it with pliers, then try pulling it loose with pliers - the hose might split in spite of your best efforts.
Lift the panel out. Be careful not to lose the two rubber "feet". Picture Glue them onto their channels, maybe. I did lose mine, of course; I replaced them with foam rubber weather strip material.
The bulbs come out easily with a quarter counterclockwise turn. You might need to use a pair of pliers on the smaller ones.
Re-installation:
There are two metal channels that the rubber feet/tabs go into (the rubber feet should stay in the channels). If the feet are missing. just use any padding material to provide a snug, rattle-free fit.
After checking the "feet" situation, attach all the cables and the turbo boost gauge hose; if you leave the Pictogram cable for last, you can attach all the other stuff with the cluster mostly above the dash-top level. I have a couple of "secrets" that make this a lot easier. First, the darn turbo gauge hose is too short. I got some good, thick-walled vacuum hose from a parts store and replaced the original piece with a somewhat longer piece of the new stuff. If you use a splice, it will be easy. If you replace it starting where it enters the car, it will be difficult. If you insist on replacing it all, here are some tips: Pull the old piece off the nylon connector where it enters the car. Use a good light and grasp the new piece of hose about an inch behind the end, reach way back there to the connection and force it on. If it's not good, thick wall hose, you'll regret it - it has to be stiff enough to push onto the connector. Once the long hose is in place, you can stow it where you can get to it.
The next secret is to start with the connectors on the right side and work to the left side. The intermediate connectors must be positioned with the connector fingers facing up so they can contact the flexible circuit board contact fingers. The very last connection should be that swing-on connector for the Pictogram (left side, bottom). Don't forget the boost gauge hose. Drop the cluster back into the foot holds and secure it with the two screws - tighten gently, or the plastic corners of the cluster will break.