Townsend has a good write-up, and it includes instructions on modifying the mount to limit its travel.  I have taken his modification a step further.  Townsend's mod cuts the mount travel from about an inch to about 3/4".  My modification cuts mount travel to about 1/2".  My mount mods.

The limit bracket that runs up and over the front of the mount is secured by a 10mm nut on one side and it looks like something that needs to be removed, but don't do it!  It's a waste of time because the limit bracket is spot welded on the other end.  There's no need to remove that nut.  There's a washer-like thing with a tab on it that contacts the mount to limit travel; make sure you get it on right side up.  The U-bend goes up, not down.  The limit stop plate on the rear mount is flat.

 Weird things that you'll need to make the job easier:
bullet a 2" extension for your ratchet (or two 1") for the front bolt on the front mount
bulletnot a 3"; it's too long
bulletNOTE: A 3/8" drive 13mm socket, a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter and a 1/2" drive ratchet should also work
bulleta 16mm socket (5/8" will do) for the center nut on the mount

Put the right front corner of the car on a jack stand

bulletPut the stand under the side frame, behind the rear mount bracket of the front suspension
bulletNot under the subframe, as you'll need to loosen the subframe later
bulletHere's a pic

 Remove the right front wheel.

Remove the fender inner liner (instructions).  
bulletThe front mount is clearly visible to your right as you look into the wheel well.  Picture

Using a ratchet and socket, remove the bolt from the center of the mount.  Picture

bulletit's a weird size: 16mm or 5/8" will fit it

Remove the 13mm rear bolt for the front mount.  Picture

Remove the 13mm front mount bolt:  Picture
bulletYou'll need a very short extension.  I used a 3/8" drive 13mm socket, a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter (to act as a very short extension) and a 1/2" drive ratchet.
bulletreach over the mount and its limit bracket and put the socket onto the bolt head
bulletattach the ratchet and wail
bullet(you might be able to put the ratchet on first and still get to the nut, but it's easier to position the socket first)
We need to jack the engine up, but first we need to do some preparatory stuff.  I think you can jack the engine enough without removing the bolt from the rear mount, but I worry about stressing or breaking the mount, so I recommend that you go ahead and remove the rear mount center bolt.
bulletRemove the center bolt from the rear mount.  The power steering hose is in the way from below, so I found that the best way to get it was to fit a 10" or 12" extension to the 16 mm or 5/8"socket, then fit a universal joint to that and then assemble a couple of feet of various extensions to allow access from the top.  Picture  Thread the tool assembly down from above, then engage the socket from below.  You can't see the bolt head, but it's at the bottom of the bracket that comes down to the rear mount from the engine.  A second person would be helpful here.
bulletDisconnect and remove the torque rod (one bolt, one bolt & nut)
bulletit's the "top mount", above the engine, toward the rear, passenger side  Picture

Carefully jack up the engine (put a piece of wood between the jack & the oil pan)

bulletkeep an eye on things from the top as you jack; avoid stressing any cables or hoses, or mashing anything
bulletmy engine went as high as it would go without incident.

 Now if the front mount is busted, you can pull the center rubber piece and then the base out

bullet you can't get the new mount in, though, because it's new and in one piece and in good shape.

So loosen the subframe bolts on the right side  Picture

bulletTwo 13 mm bolts at the front corner (remove them)
bulletThe two toward the hinge point (14 mm nuts, 17 mm bolt heads on top, I think)
bulletLoosening the one at the "stay rod" (in-board of the ball joint) helps, I think
bulletDon't worry about anything falling out, as long as the engine is supported.  There is no load from the suspension springs, as they are retained by the shock absorber assemblies.  The subframe does support the transmission on the driver's side, but you won't be loosening anything on that side.

Pry the front corner of the subframe down until you can insert the new mount

bulletwatch your fingers!  Best to insert a block between frame and subframe
bulletan inch and a half  or so thick
bulletthe mount will go in from the wheel well side
bulletthe secret is to rotate it forward or sideways into the hole, then rotate it back to upright  Picture

The rear mount, should you decide to do it, is secured by three bolts with nuts.  While this sounds much worse than the front mount's bolts-into-the-frame, it actually works out nicely.  You can hold the bolt heads above with an open end wrench, then ratchet the nuts off from below.  Picture

bulletthe subframe doesn't have to be dropped to get the rear mount in/out.
bulletthe secret (as I recall) is to remove it toward the left (U.S. driver's) side of the car, and perhaps forward as well.
bulletlift it up, slide it over, drop it down through the only opening available
bulletinstallation is the reverse.

Release the subframe and re-attach the sub frame bolts (good & snug; don't wring them off; 40 ft-lbs is the official torque).

Install all mount bolts loosely, then drop the engine bracket down onto the mounts and install the center mount bolts, then tighten the mount bolts/nuts.

bulletI  don't have torque values, but they don't need to be much more than good and snug.
bulletTake care when aligning, and lever the engine to line it up.  Work patiently, to avoid cross-threading.
 

Torque rod replacement notes