Parts, tools and equipment

I don't think the bulbs I used are bright enough, but they're better than nothing.  If nothing else, this procedure should get the job done.  If you find better bulbs, let me know!

If you've ever ruined a radio or two trying to do something simple like bulb replacement, you'll be gun-shy forever.  It's humiliating when they build things so shoddily that they fall apart and are unrepairable when you take them apart.  Fortunately, the Saab radio is well made and you can at least work on the bulbs without fear.

Make sure you know the radio code before you remove the radio.  Proof of ownership at a dealer (Vehicle Identification Number) - plus a few bucks - will get you the code if you don't know it.

Remove the radio using the two U-shaped tools.

Disassembly
Remove the volume and fader  knobs.  Put them in a safe place.

Remove the phillips head screw from the front tabs on each side.

Lay the radio down on its bottom surface.  Lift the single plastic tab on the top - it releases when pulled up - and rotate the front panel slightly forward.    Stand the radio on end so you can see the bottom..  Hold the top of the front panel out so it won't lock back in place, then  lift the two tabs on the bottom, release them and pull the front cover off, rotating it downward (but don't rotate it all the way yet).  Remove the bulb from the plastic shield of the tuner readout and then slip the green soft plastic piece off the metal tab in the middle of the chassis - it removes to the left when seen from the front.  That's the tape bay illuminator.  If the green plastic cover came out with the tuner illuminator bulb,  pull the cover off the bulb and re-install the cover into the tuner shield.

It helps to put the radio on a surface that's raised about 1/2" above the work area, so the front panel can lie flat.  Disconnect the flex cables: Use a small screwdriver to pry each end of each connector forward.  When the connectors are moved fully forward, the flex cables slip out easily and the panel will be free to work with.

Now remove the three small screws from the black plastic piece that covers the circuit board.  These will be about 1/2"  long.

Remove the Screw from the corner of the circuit board - this one is about 5/16" long.  Stand the unit on end so you can see the bottom.  Loosen (but do not remove) the two screws that are just beneath the flex cables.  Now you should be able to rotate the circuit board out of the front panel.  

Just beside the opening for the volume control is a 3/16" cylinder for the power indicator LED.  A clear plastic cylinder (the lens) lives there and it loves to fall out.  When it falls out, put it somewhere where you will remember it.  If you put it back in, it will just keep falling back out.

Bulb replacement
The bulbs slip into green soft plastic lenses.  If the plastic lens pulls out with the bulb, re-install the lens into the circuit board, then install the bulb into the lens (don't put the bulb in and then try to install the lens).   Note that the leads on three of the bulbs are oriented horizontally, and three others are oriented at about a 45 degree angle.  Look for the fine bulb wires to find the right pads.  Use a soldering  iron and solder sucker or solder wick to remove the solder from the defective bulbs.  If you have an extra pair of hands and a fine tool, you can probably lift the leads free of the melted solder without having to remove the solder.

When the leads are free, pull the bulb out of the green soft plastic cover, leaving the cover in place.  If the cover comes out too, remove it from the bulb and re-install the cover into the hole.  Push the new bulb into the green cover, spread the leads and solder them to the correct pads (if you removed the solder, it will be easier to identify the correct pads).  Clip the excess lead length and check carefully to be sure there are no shorts to adjacent pads.

Check the two bulbs with insulated leads (tuner and tape bay illuminators) for continuity.  Replace as necessary.  The tape bay illuminator is the same as the panel lights.  The tuner lamp is essentially the same as the seat heater switch lamps (Radio Shack # 272-1092 or Lamp Type 7219 (12v, 60 mA)), although RS has a leaded version that would probably be easier to work with.

Re-assembly
Position the board component side down, then align the flat flex circuits with the connectors.  Slip the circuit fingers into the connectors and push in as far as they will go, then push the connectors in using a small screwdriver (or whatever).  Make sure both sides of both connectors are fully seated.

To make the front panel re-assembly easier, put the radio on something about 1/2" high.  Slide the front panel under the circuit board.  STOP!  Is the clear plastic cylinder for the power light in place?  Well, put it in there.

Rotate the board up at the top, then slide the two notches under the two small screws at the bottom of the front panel. 

Install the black plastic piece onto the circuit board.  The flat edge goes toward the bottom and the smoothest side faces up.  It will make sense when you look at it.  I think.  Install the three long screws through the three holes in the plastic piece.  Install the short screw at the corner of the circuit board.

Stand the radio on end and tighten the bottom two circuit board screws, just beneath the flex cables.

Insert the tuner illuminator bulb and slip the tape bay illuminator back onto the metal tab on the front of the chassis.

Tentatively slide the front panel into place, making sure that the clips all align properly.  You have to make sure that the plastic tabs on the bottom don't slide under the chassis bar.  The tabs should be clearly visible.

Clip the tabs into place and install the two screws in the end tabs.

Install the fader knob; the control tab should be on the right (unless you want it on the left).

Install the volume knob.

You're done.